In an increasingly complex world, staying connected to each other can be challenging, hence the goal of this newsletter is to provide you with practical ideas through shared captures of bonding moments and life in France, and more.
After enjoying time with my brother on the French Riviera and a week with friends, one of my aunt - H. - extended a weekend invitation. For just over five years, she has called Béziers in the Languedoc region of Southern France, home, having relocated from the North where our family has its roots. Visiting her has become an annual end-of-summer tradition, offering a resourcing retreat as the holidays draw to a close.
📌A swift geographical dive
First, a map of Languedoc(-Roussillon), nestled in the South, contrasting with Paris in the North. Then, a closer look at the region, highlighting Béziers nearly at the center.
Strolling through the neighborhood
Every morning as the sun rises, the dog is taken out for a traditional stroll shortly after serenading us. His name, Félix, is ironically feline, yet he remains the big blue-eyed boy of his mother H. True to his breed, Félix never misses a chance to chase pigeons, barrel towards other local dogs, and tug at his leash with the vigor of any untrained, self-respecting border collie. As we walk, H. and I often discuss about the day’s plan, pausing intermittently to sip from our thermoses of coffee whenever Félix graces us with a moment of stillness.
Making our way through the neighborhood, we often cross paths with elderly ladies, who, during their canine strolls, take the chance to socialize and perfect their sunbathing. Our exchanges typically revolve around on the usual questions: ‘What’s his name?’, ‘How old is he?’, and ‘Has he been neutered?’—his craze making the last question redundant. We catch up on local gossip, discuss the best fruit markets, and share directions, encountering other elderly ladies filling the public spaces.
Once Félix was done with his promenade, I set out in search of something new and fresh to gift my aunt, as tradition bestows.
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Engaging the local field
Over the years, I’ve thoroughly explored Béziers, leaving no pavement untrodden. My usual routine involves wandering through its streets, errantly observing any changes in the scenery. While some addresses have shifted—like the independent bookstore moving to a more spacious and accessible location—there's often little new under the sun. But this time was different.
I discovered Les Ostals just three streets from the city hall. Drawn by the sound of Spanish music echoing through the alleyways, I followed the tune to this new community space. Directional signs, reminiscent of those guiding hikers, had been added to lead the way. I paused for a few moments to take in my surroundings. Menus were displayed on the front wall, and five tables inside were kept cool by the thick stone walls. As I stepped in, I found more seating on a terrace, mostly shaded by the surrounding buildings. Toward the back, an open door led to two rehabilitated rooms on display. Inside, a man struck up a brief, friendly conversation with me—something I genuinely enjoy. His friends had urged him to visit Les Ostals, and he was pleased to see that locals had taken the initiative to finally rejuvenate the old city center.
The space is said to have opened two months ago. The operators host artistic workshops during the day, while Thursday evenings are reserved for conferences on archaeology and heritage, and Friday nights for jazz concerts. On this occasion, I had the chance to attend a presentation by two officers from the city’s archaeological department. It’s a rarity in France, as such departments are typically justified by the presence of significant heritage sites—Roman in this case. The fifteen of us in attendance were guided through the archaeological process, from initial site mapping, diagnostics and ground excavations to uncovering medieval painted ceilings, whether conducting a local field assessment or inspecting a historic home.
In hindsight, the space reminds me of the Swedish Institute in Paris, which I introduced in A Swede in Paris, for both its sense of community and its support for the arts. The differences lie in scale—Béziers is smaller and less populated, both in terms of residents and visitors, compared to Paris—and in focus: a national institution from Sweden versus a city-centered initiative in Béziers. The themed space in Béziers revolves around local heritage, both archaeological and cultural, making it inherently rooted in its surroundings, unlike the more national scope of the Swedish Institute. These factors may account for the tighter, more localized community ties here. Yet, this focus in no way diminishes the remarkable work done at the Swedish Institute.
Mapping family and local community
Upon returning home, I eagerly recommended Les Ostals to my aunt, detailing the experiences it offers and highlighting aspects she might particularly enjoy. This sparked engaging discussions. She admitted she was unfamiliar with the area and considered expanding her dog walks to explore it.
I’m contemplating delving deeper into local community initiatives like this one. I’m interested in understanding who initiates these projects, how they develop, how they’re promoted, and how community bonds are maintained. Initially, I plan to broaden my knowledge about the French Riviera, having already gathered a selection of novels and educational books on the subject. Languedoc will be my next focus, with maps to aid my exploration.
✍️ Tell me…
Does your hometown or city feature themed open spaces? How did you hear about them?
What activities do you usually engage in there?
How do you contribute to its local development?
I loved your description of the little art gallery/events space/community center/whatever. In Rodez, we have a tiers lieu but since I live a bit out of town, I don't get there much, although I went to an event there this summer and it was great. But that is a larger project.
I'm also interested in these smaller projects that give life to a city. I had hoped to write some up for my newsletter, but it's actually very hard to just plop into a city for barely two days and find out what's really going on. Obviously researching in advance can bear fruit, but there's already a lot of research to do just to figure the new city out.
I'll be interested in your Languedoc reports -- that's getting close to my territory.