In an increasingly complex world, staying connected to each other can be challenging, hence the goal of this newsletter is to provide you with practical ideas through shared captures of bonding moments and life in France, and more.
This is the second in a two-part series, 'The Summery French Riviera.' Here’s the link to the last newsletter:
The Summery French Riviera #1 - Beyond Paris, there are Antibes and Nice.
As shared in the previous newsletter, I journeyed to Antibes to reunite with my brother, roughly half-way between the prominent shoreline of Nice and the crescent bay of Cannes. The town, with its enduring allure of yesteryear, blends a storied history and a vital, bountiful artistic spirit, making it worth the visit. And, waking to the call of seagulls, rather than the crow of a rooster or the rumble of a backfiring bike, has its appeal.
Artful (Hi)story & Coffee
Antibes has long been a haven for artists, from French figures like Marc Chagall and Yves Klein, who found inspiration for his IKB - International Klein Blue in the Riviera’s hues to international names as Spain’s Joan Miró, or America’s John Fitzgerald, who also sought creative refuge here. Over the decades, these creatives have braided a silky web of ideas and connections, embroidering friendships and intellectual debates into the fabric of the town’s intimate, maritime setting.
Experiencing the museum in Antibes was a change from the capital. Here, visitors were notably present and engaged, with a respect for both the art and each other's space. Attendees genuinely took their time to contemplate and absorb, process and admire the exhibits, whether in groups or on their own. This unhurried approach made the tour all the more satisfying.
Back to Paris, I’d be thrilled to connect with more creatives, and more often. The Swedish Institute, featured in A Swede in Paris a few months ago, has been my first step in that direction.
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Artistic Ashore & Gelato Galore
Antibes’ evergreen artistic scene called for selecting some ceramics as gifts. The day before, my mother and I had wandered past the artists' galleries on ‘Boulevard d’Aguillon’, where I noticed she was instantly captivated by a specific piece. The mug, in a muted grey-clay hue, featured golden highlights around the rim, precisely where lips would meet before sipping on comforting coffee.
Upon returning that day, I was relieved to find that the piece was still available. Gently grasping its handle, I set out to locate the artist for payment. Along the way, I discovered another of her creations that caught my eye, echoing my mother's earlier infatuation. This particular item, part of a different collection, promised to elevate my espresso game at the office.
With the artist away, I took the opportunity to speak with her colleague about their work. I learned that Antibes provides this venue for young local artists to showcase their creations on a rotating basis. After their stint in Antibes, they travel back to various locations across the French Riviera—Vallauris for some, Toulon for others, etc.—at the end of summer.
I also acquired a fashion poster from a quaint shop. It was clear that the artist enjoyed strong support from the local community. A charming couple, owners of a serene restaurant I tried shortly after, had adorned their establishment with the artist’s pieces. Their tranquil eatery, tucked in a nearby narrow street, showcased his artworks on both the front door and the main interior wall.
As for dessert, Gelateria Del Porto on ‘Rue d’Aubernon’ is a local favorite where strollers are willing to wait 15 minutes for a taste. This time, the line was so short I needed an additional moment at the counter to decide between flavors—Amarena and intense chocolate. Given the heavy weather, I had to quickly find a bench to prevent any accidental melting onto my clothes. Interestingly, those who opted for fruity aromas seemed to avoid similar technical mishaps.
Antibes
Honestly, I didn't anticipate being this infatuated by the French Riviera, with numerous destinations still on my itinerary—be it Mougins, Menton, or Cap-Ferrat. Plus, staying in Antibes offers the distinct advantage of flexible travel options—whether heading west to Marseille or east to Nice, train journeys range from a brief 15 minutes to a leisurely couple of hours. Returning in a few months, as flowers don their automnal tones, would be the perfect excuse.
✍️ Tell me…
What’s your favorite vacation destination?
Do you tend to gravitate towards cultural experiences or sporting activities?
For those in Paris, where are the best spaces to meet with creatives?
I'm glad you enjoyed your experiences there. I spent a month in Nice on a study program many long years ago and couldn't get enough of all of the museums there and along the whole coast. And the train connections were great back then too -- who knows, perhaps even better! Unfortunately the Occitanie and Nouvelle-Aquitaine are pretty much a disaster zone as far as taking the train.
I've had a couple great lunches at the Swedish Institute -- when I could find a seat that is!
Antibes is beautiful, and the whole region is definitely special. my only problem once you're outside of the big cities is its dependency on cars. https://k7v.in/we-let-cars-ruin-our-landscape